We went to Fish in the ‘Hood tonight, and it exceeded my expectations. I loved this place the moment I heard its delightful name. But even more pleasing to the senses: its delicious food. I love you, Fish in the ‘Hood.

Fish in the ‘Hood is strictly a take-out venue. It’s not a dive — it has nice glass cases full of fresh fish on ice, cute benches for waiting, plaid wallpaper. It’s nice — not so much that we fit in while waiting there in our work clothes (nor would I want it to be!). But an upstanding seafood establishment.

We ate: fried trout, cornbread (both recommended by the drug dealers in the ‘hood), catfish, macaroni and cheese and collard greens. All of it was scrumptious. Even the collard greens. (Quite the accomplishment because, let’s face it, it’s pretty easy to make some colossally bad collard greens.)

They sell fresh seafood by the pound, and they fry it for you there. And it is so good, it will make you want to slap your grandma. Oh, fish in the ‘hood.

While Mr. Fish in the Hood was packing up our order, he also gave my husband some great culinary wisdom:

“Now, when you eat this, you want to feed it to your woman by hand. That enhances the flavor of the fish. You also want to call her ‘my queen,’ and look into her eyes… that also enhances the flavor of the fish.

“Try it, and if it works, come back Sunday, and we’ll have you give a testimonial. There are some people who are having some troubles.”

Bill’s Seafood Fish N the Hood: 3601 Georgia Ave. NW, Washington, DC

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